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Turkmenistan
Turkmenistan is largely a desert with cattle and sheep raising, intensive agriculture in irrigated area. Turkmenistan is important to world energy markets because it contains the world's third largest reserves of natural gas, with estimates of the country's total gas resource base ranging as high as 535 trillion cubic feet.

History
Turkmenistan was part of the kingdom of ancient Persia and was later (8th-19th cent.) ruled by the Arabs, the Seljuk Turks (see KHOREZM), JENGHIZ KHAN, TIMUR and the TIMURIDS, and the Uzbeks.

Turkmenistan shares borders with Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan and Iran. To the west is the Caspian Sea. Nearly 80 per cent of the country is taken up by the Kara-Kum (Black Sand) desert, the largest in the CIS. Turkmenistan's tourist trade is relatively undeveloped. Almost all the attractions lie around the fringes of the desert and in oases. The capital, Ashgabat, on the southern rim of the Kara-Kum desert, is a modern city. It replaced the one founded in 1881, which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1948. The Sunday market in Ashgabat is the best place anywhere to buy Turkmen carpets. Mary, due east of Ashgabat, is Turkmenistan's second city. It lies near the remains of the city of Merv, which was once the second city of Islam until Ghengis Khan's son Toloi, reduced it to rubble killing many inhabitants in 1221. Plov - pronounced 'plof' - is the staple food for everyday and celebrations and consists of chunks of mutton, shredded yellow turnip and rice fried in a large wok. Ashgabat has an opera and ballet theatre, which shows both Russian and European works and a drama theatre.

Under Russian rule from 1881, the area initially resisted the Bolsheviks but fell to the Red Army by 1920. In 1925 the Turkmen Soviet Socialist Republic was formed from Turkmenian portions of Soviet Turkistan. In 1991 the republic's parliament declared Turkmenistan independent following a referendum; after the Soviet Union collapsed, the republic joined the COMMONWEALTH OF INDEPENDENT STATES. The former Communist party has retained its hold on power in Turkmenistan, although there has been some movement toward privatizing the economy. Pres. Saparmurad Niyazov was reelected in 1992; he was the only candidate in the election.

limited illicit cultivator of opium poppy, mostly for domestic consumption; limited government eradication program; increasingly used as transshipment point for illicit drugs from Southwest Asia to Russia and Western Europe; also a transshipment point for acetic anhydride destined for Afghanistan

General Information
Area: 488,100 sq km (188,456 sq miles).
Population: 4,708,000 (1998).
Population Density: 9.6 per sq km.
Capital: Ashgabat. Population: 517,200 (1993).

Country name: Turkmenistan former: Turkmen Soviet Socialist Republic
Government type: republic
Capital: Ashgabat
Administrative divisions: 5 welayatlar (singular - welayat): Ahal Welayaty (Ashgabat), Balkan Welayaty (Nebitdag), Dashhowuz Welayaty (formerly Tashauz), Lebap Welayaty (Charjew), Mary Welayaty

note: administrative divisions have the same names as their administrative centers (exceptions have the administrative center name following in parentheses)

Geography: Turkmenistan shares borders with Kazakhstan to the north, Uzbekistan to the east, Afghanistan to the southeast and Iran to the south. To the west is the Caspian Sea. Nearly 80% of the country is taken up by the Kara-Kum (Black Sand) desert, the largest in the CIS. The longest irrigation canal in the world stretches 1100km (687 miles), from the Amu-Darya River in the east, through Ashgabat, before being piped the rest of the way to the Caspian Sea.

Government: Republic. Gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Head of State and Government: President Saparmurad A Niyazov since 1990.

Language: Turkmen is the official state language, and is closer to Turkish, Azeri and Crimean Tartar than those of its neighbours Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. The Turkmen script was changed from Latin to Cyrillic in 1940, but the process of changing back to the Turkish version of the Latin script is underway.

Religion: Predominantly Sunni Muslim with a small Russian Orthodox minority. Turkmenistan shares the Central Asian Sufi tradition.

Time: GMT + 5.

Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Round 2-pin continental plugs are standard.

Communications:

International organization participation: AsDB, CCC, CIS, EAPC, EBRD, ECE, ECO, ESCAP, FAO, IBRD, ICAO, ICRM, IDB, IFC, IFRCS, ILO, IMF, IMO, Intelsat (nonsignatory user), IOC, IOM (observer), ISO (correspondent), ITU, NAM, OIC, OPCW, OSCE, PFP, UN, UNCTAD, UNESCO, UNIDO, UPU, WFTU, WHO, WIPO, WMO, WToO, WTrO (observer)

 

The country
Due to its huge oil and gas reserves, its economy remains dependent on central planning mechanisms and state control, although the Government has taken a number of small steps to make the transition to a market economy. Agriculture, particularly cotton cultivation, accounts for nearly half of total employment. Gas, oil and gas derivatives, and cotton account for almost all of the country's export revenues. Negotiations between the Government and an international gas consortium concerning the construction of a gas export pipeline across the Caspian Sea--the Trans-Caspian Pipeline--stalled in the latter half of the year. While the idea for the pipeline still exists, the Government is focusing instead on negotiating large gas deals with Russia and Ukraine. It is also considering projects for pipelines through Iran and Afghanistan, as well as a pipeline to China.

People
Population: 4,603,244 (July 2001 est.)
Age structure: 0-14 years: 37.88% (male 891,758; female 852,104)
15-64 years: 58.09% (male 1,313,303; female 1,360,690)
65 years and over: 4.03% (male 70,800; female 114,589) (2001 est.)
Population growth rate: 1.85% (2001 est.)
Birth rate: 28.55 births/1,000 population (2001 est.)
Death rate: 8.98 deaths/1,000 population (2001 est.)
Net migration rate: -1.04 migrant(s)/1,000 population (2001 est.)
Life expectancy at birth: total population: 61 years
male: 57.43 years
female: 64.76 years (2001 est.)
Total fertility rate: 3.58 children born/woman (2001 est.)

Nationality: noun: Turkmen(s)
adjective: Turkmen
Ethnic groups: Turkmen 77%, Uzbek 9.2%, Russian 6.7%, Kazakh 2%, other 5.1% (1995)
Religions: Muslim 89%, Eastern Orthodox 9%, unknown 2%
Languages: Turkmen 72%, Russian 12%, Uzbek 9%, other 7%
Literacy: definition: age 15 and over can read and write male: 99%, female: 97% (1989 est.)

Independence: 27 October 1991 (from the Soviet Union)
National holiday: Independence Day, 27 October (1991)
Constitution: adopted 18 May 1992
Legal system: based on civil law system

Executive branch: chief of state: President and Chairman of the Cabinet of Ministers Saparmurat NIYAZOV (since 27 October 1990, when the first direct presidential election occurred); note - the president is both the chief of state and head of government

head of government: President and Chairman of the Cabinet of Ministers Saparmurat NIYAZOV (since 27 October 1990, when the first direct presidential election occurred); note - the president is both the chief of state and head of government

cabinet: Council of Ministers appointed by the president

note: NIYAZOV's term in office was extended indefinitely on 28 December 1999 by the Assembly (Majlis) during a session of the People's Council (Halk Maslahaty)

elections: president elected by popular vote for a five-year term; election last held 21 June 1992

President NIYAZOV was unanimously approved as president for life by the Assembly on 28 December 1999); deputy chairmen of the cabinet of ministers are appointed by the president

election results: Saparmurat NIYAZOV elected president without opposition; percent of vote - Saparmurat NIYAZOV 99.5%

There are two parliamentary bodies, a unicameral People's Council or Halk Maslahaty (more than 100 seats, some of which are elected by popular vote and some of which are appointed; meets infrequently) and a unicameral Assembly or Majlis (50 seats; members are elected by popular vote to serve five-year terms)

Judicial branch: Supreme Court (judges are appointed by the president)
Political parties and leaders: Democratic Party of Turkmenistan or DPT [Saparmurat NIYAZOV]

note: formal opposition parties are outlawed; unofficial, small opposition movements exist underground or in foreign countries

Location: Central Asia, bordering the Caspian Sea, between Iran and Kazakhstan

Geographic coordinates: 40 00 N, 60 00 E

Map references: Commonwealth of Independent States

Area: total: 488,100 sq km

land: 488,100 sq km water: 0 sq km
Area - comparative: slightly larger than California
Land boundaries: total: 3,736 km

border countries: Afghanistan 744 km, Iran 992 km, Kazakhstan 379 km, Uzbekistan 1,621 km

Coastline: 0 km; note - Turkmenistan borders the Caspian Sea (1,768 km)
Maritime claims: none (landlocked)

Climate: subtropical desert

Terrain: flat-to-rolling sandy desert with dunes rising to mountains in the south; low mountains along border with Iran; borders Caspian Sea in west

Elevation extremes: lowest point: Vpadina Akchanaya -81.00 m; note - Sarygamysh Koli is a lake in northern Turkmenistan with a water level that fluctuates above and below the elevation of Vpadina Akchanaya (the lake has dropped as low as -110 m)

highest point: Gora Ayribaba 3,139 m
Natural resources: petroleum, natural gas, coal, sulfur, salt
Land use: arable land: 3%

permanent crops: 0%

permanent pastures: 63%

forests and woodland: 8%

other: 26% (1993 est.)
Irrigated land: 13,000 sq km (1993 est.)
Natural hazards: NA
Environment - current issues: contamination of soil and groundwater with agricultural chemicals, pesticides; salination, water-logging of soil due to poor irrigation methods; Caspian Sea pollution; diversion of a large share of the flow of the Amu Darya into irrigation contributes to that river's inability to replenish the Aral Sea; desertification
Environment - international agreements: party to: Biodiversity, Climate Change, Climate Change-Kyoto Protocol, Desertification, Hazardous Wastes, Ozone Layer Protection signed, but not ratified: none of the selected agreements

Currency:
Turkmen manat (TMM)
Currency code: TMM
Exchange rates: Turkmen manats per US dollar
5,200 (January 2001)
5,200 (January 2000)
5,350 (January 1999)
4,070 (January 1997)
2,400 (January 1996)

Communication
Telephone: Country code: 993. Area code for Ashgabat: 12. Outgoing international code: 810.

Mobile telephone: GSM 900 network covers Ashgabat area. Operated by BCTI.

Fax: Services are available in the main hotels for residents only.

Internet/E-mail: ISPs include Turkemenistan Online (web site: http://www.online.tm).

Telegram: Services are available from post offices in large towns.

Post: Letters to Western Europe and the USA can take between two weeks and two months. Stamped envelopes can be bought from post offices. Mail addresses should be laid out in the following order: country, postcode, city, street, house number and lastly the person's name. Post office hours: 0900-1800 Monday to Friday. The main Post Office in Ashgabat is open until 1900.

Press: The press in Turkmenistan is censored. The main newspapers in Ashgabat are Turkmenistan and Vatan (both in Turkmen) and Neitralnyi Turkmentistan (Russian).

Turkmensiyakhat (State Tourist Corporation of Turkmenistan)
17 Pushkin Street, 744000 Ashgabat, Turkmenistan
Tel: (12) 354 777 or 397 777. Fax: (12) 396 740 or 357 934. E-mail: travel@online.tm

Ministry of Culture
14 Pushkin Street, 744000 Ashgabat, Turkmenistan
Tel/Fax: (12) 353 560.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs
83 ul. Gogol, 744000 Ashgabat, Turkmenistan
Tel: (12) 392 478 or 356 148. Fax: (12) 511 114.

Radio and TV
International: linked by cable and microwave radio relay to other CIS republics and to other countries by leased connections to the Moscow international gateway switch; a new telephone link from Ashgabat to Iran has been established; a new exchange in Ashgabat switches international traffic through Turkey via Intelsat; satellite earth stations - 1 Orbita and 1 Intelsat
Radio broadcast stations: AM 16, FM 8, shortwave 2 (1998)
Radios: 1.225 million (1997)
Television broadcast stations: 3 (much programming relayed from Russia and Turkey) (1997)
Televisions: 820,000 (1997)
Internet country code: .tm
Internet users: 2,000 (2000)

Railways: total: 2,187 km

broad gauge: 2,187 km 1.520-m gauge (1996 est.)
Highways: total: 22,000 km

paved: 18,000 km (these roads are said to be hard-surfaced, and include, in addition to conventionally paved roads, some that are surfaced with gravel or other coarse aggregate, making them trafficable in all weather)

Flag description:
green field with a vertical red stripe near the hoist side, containing five carpet guls (designs used in producing rugs) stacked above two crossed olive branches similar to the olive branches on the UN flag; a white crescent moon and five white stars appear in the upper corner of the field just to the fly side of the red stripe

Sport & Activities
Horseriding: Turkmenistan is home to the Akilteken horse, a special breed known for its speed and intelligence. These horses occupy a special place in Turkmen culture and are a source of great national pride. An old Turkmen saying goes, 'Getting up in the morning, greet your father and then see your horse.' Rides in the countryside can be arranged through local tour operators or through travel agents specialising in Turkmenistan. The vast open spaces make Turkmenistan very good for riding, though the Akilteken horses are suitable for experienced riders only. Rides can be done just outside Ashgabat through the gorges of the Firuza River and to the local hot springs, and in other parts of the country.

Horse racing:
In spring and autumn, horseraces are held at the Hippodrome in Ashgabat, and 10km (6 miles) south of Ashgabat is the Turkmenbashi Stud Farm where the Akilteken horses are bred.

Food & Drink:
Turkmen food is similar to that of the rest of Central Asia. There are a number of good Western-standard restaurants in Ashgabat, although they rarely have an extensive menu.
Plov - pronounced 'plof' - is the staple food for everyday (but is also served at celebrations) and consists of chunks of mutton, shredded yellow turnip and rice fried in a large wok.
Shashlyk (skewered chunks of mutton grilled over charcoal - kebabs - which come with raw sliced onions) and lipioshka (rounds of unleavened bread) are served in restaurants and are often sold in the street, but the quality can be variable.
Manty are larger noodle sacks filled with meat.
Shorpa is a meat and vegetable soup. There are, however, a number of dishes that are particularly characteristic of Turkmenistan: ka'urma is mutton deep-fried in its own fat and churban churpa is mutton fat dissolved in green tea.
Ishkiykli are dough balls filled with meat and onion which are traditionally cooked in sand that has been heated by a fire.
On the shores of the Caspian Sea, seafood is often substituted for mutton in traditional dishes such as plov.
In the west of Turkmenistan there is a speciality in which mutton is roasted in a clay oven fired with aromatic woods.
In general, hotel food shows strong Russian influence: borcht is cabbage soup, entrecote is a well-done steak, cutlet are grilled meat balls, and strogan is the local equivalent of beef Stroganoff.
Pirmeni, originating in Ukraine, are small boiled noodle sacks of meat and vegetables similar to ravioli, sometimes served in a vegetable soup.

Drink:
Green tea is very popular and can be obtained almost anywhere. Beer, wine, vodka, brandy and sparkling wine (shampanski) are all widely available in restaurants. Kefir, a thick drinking yoghurt, is often served with breakfast.

Nightlife:
Ashgabat has an opera and ballet theatre, which shows both Russian and European works and a drama theatre. There are also a few restaurants offering dancing.

Shopping:
The Sunday market is the best place in the world to buy the misleadingly named Bukhara rugs, which are actually made in Turkmenistan. There is a shop in the Art Gallery which sells traditional Turkmen handicrafts, silver and costumes including the distinctive Turkmen sheepskin hats. The central bazaar in Ashgabat is a good place to buy food and curiosities. Shopping hours: 0900-1800 Monday to Friday. Bazaars open at dawn.

Special Events:
There are a number of festivals which provide an interesting spectacle for visitors. The following are a selection of events celebrated annually:
Apr (last Sunday) Akilteken Day, celebration of the Akilteken horse with parades and races.
May (last Sunday) Day of the Turkmen Carpet.
Sep (second Sunday) Bakshi Day, celebration of Turkmen folk singers.
Nov (last Sunday) Harvest Festival.

Social Conventions:
Lipioshka (bread) should never be laid upside down, and it is normal to remove shoes, but not socks, when entering someone's house. Shorts are rarely seen in Turkmenistan and, worn by females, are likely to provoke unwelcome attention from the local male population.